Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Oxford is small town

So, I went to Oxford this past weekend (hence the dearth of posts) to visit my lovely friend Katie from high school, and it wasn't at all what I expected.  I knew that Oxford was fundamentally different from American universities, as it is really a cooperative of its constituent colleges, rather than a single institution that has left some independence to its educational units.  Rather fittingly, I think that the analogy of United States (American University) vs European Union (Oxford) is a rather accurate one.

Anyway, despite knowing about the educational structure, I was not prepared for the physical reality.  Somehow I still expected there to be a defined campus, with open quads and grand vistas, but instead (while exceedingly pretty) Oxford is really just a medium sized gothic town.  The colleges are simply (beautiful) off-limits buildings with courtyards and gardens, and have no structural relationship to each other, or any sense of connectedness.  Of course, that should be expected from one of the oldest educational institutions in the world, but it still disappointed me, as if they had missed an opportunity at some point in the past to truly combine them and eradicate any non-residential distinction (to end up with a system like Harvard or Yale, where your college is just where you live and socialize).  What was actually galling to me though is that your undergraduate experience depends so much on which college you attend.  Some colleges are ridiculously wealthy and have heavy subsidies (I am told) and nothing but the best facilities and tutors (who do most of your teaching).  Others... don't.  If you think about them as separate institutions, it's acceptable (and just a group of small schools who share labs and exam rooms), but we have a tendency to group them all together as "Oxford," though your experience and education can vary quite widely.

Really though, it was more the disconnect from my expectations that jarred me, as I'm sure the experience and education are all par excellance.  I really had a lovely time, and got to have a few real English experiences.  On Saturday night after I arrived I was taken for bangers and mash at The Chequers, which (I am again told) is quite famous.  I had lamb and apricot sausage, which was delicious.  I will probably go again next time I'm up there (or risk some London bangers and mash one day).  I have been convinced to try some other English specialties, like (deep fried) fish and chips, which has the potential be good, but has thus far only been offered to me at the company cafeteria.

After dinner, which was attended by Katie and her very nice friend who is moving to London (and will thus probably see some more), we went and had a long chat and ice cream at G&D's, which was pretty good.  I say pretty good because it seems like British ice cream, no matter how exotic the flavor, shies away from any good chunky ingredients - it's all rich and creamy, with the occasional (soft) chocolate chip.

On Sunday, I got a tour of Oxford - there are a bunch of main shopping streets throughout the town, with beautiful cafes, restaurants, clothing stores and book shops.  I got to see Katie's college (Green Templeton) and the Radcliffe Observatory around which it was built, which had a good view and a really cool observation floor.  (More photos at bottom)

After the tour we went punting in the river with a picnic and another friend.  The Oxford river would best be described as a creek without any of the excitement (but all of the beautiful shores).  It varies from 15 to 30 feet wide and 5 to 10 feet deep, and has an indeterminate flow of water.  Punting, meanwhile, is the least logical method of propelling a boat in open water, and was thus decided upon for this waterway, where it can be demonstrated proudly, like a Segway in a shopping mall.  It involves standing on the front of the boat (technically you always stand on the "back" but Oxford and Cambridge have opposite definitions, and I agree with Cambridge) of the boat with a 15 foot long pole, which you push against the "riverbed" to propel yourself forward.  You then let it drag behind you to use as a rudder, pull it forward, and go again.  Anyway, punting was fun, and I got the hang of it (despite always needing to correct my direction) pretty quickly.  While one rotating person punted, the others enjoyed a traditional picnic of English cocktail sausages, carrots, and... hummus. (More photos at bottom)
After punting we met back up again with the friend from Saturday night, who served us tea along with some scones.  Katie and I brought along a trifle we had leftover from the picnic, which I think would have been better without the jello.  Then I headed back to London, where, fortunately, the first bus stop is right outside my house. 
Radcliffe Observatory:
Punting:

No comments: